As might be expected from the former child star, justin bieber clothing has already established many a fashion transformation over time. He’s done quiffed hair and a thick gold rapper’s chain. He’s posed looking buff in Calvin Klein pants. He’s experimented by using a floppy fringe and a suit. But although some of his efforts to toughen up have already been met with derision, the most recent step in the Biebvolution is really bang on the fashion money. There have been ripped jeans. We have seen oversized hoodies, and oversized Nirvana T-shirts using the sleeves hacked off. Crucially, there has been a great deal of layering – and many raw edges.
Not everybody gets it (“Justin Bieber wears bizarre frayed denim top,” was the Mirror’s response to his Marques’Almeida moment with the Radio 1 Teen awards earlier this month) however the latest incarnation of Bieber ties into a mood that is certainly sweeping through menswear – and may be arriving in your own wardrobe soon.
In a nutshell: scruffiness is hot. Glitzy has gone out. Deliberately undone and messy is in. Think a Wolfgang Tillmans portrait meets 1990s grunge using a tracksuit top along with a pierced ear thrown set for good measure. You could dub it a hot mess for males, but the single thing you would never think of it is hipster – manicured beards ought to be ditched for haphazard facial hair immediately.
Undoubtedly, Marques’Almeida, the label justin bieber clothing wore for the teen awards, has been integral for the rise in interest in denim and also jeans that happen to be hacked off and left raw. Basically, if it’s the sort of look that creates parents eyeroll and say: “You given money for that? Do want me to set proper hems on those?”, then it has legs. Elsewhere in the catwalk, for his spring/summer 2016 menswear show, Raf Simons sent herringbone trousers which had been roughly stop at the anklebone, sat above some Stan Smiths. His shrunken tank knits had a sort of moth-eaten, make-do-and-mend thing taking place; close up, the holes during these knits are layered more than a contrast fabric layer, and, actually, are far nicer than I’ve made them sound.
Justin Bieber’s winter 2015 i-D magazine cover.
This new mood – a sort of anti-luxury luxury – could there be in all of the glossy style magazines, too, although glossy is definitely the wrong word. Bieber’s recent cover shoot for i-D magazine is a great reference point. It sees the pop star stripped back – bleached hair, a smattering of stubble, tattoos. Shot by Alasdair McLellan, one of the most in-demand photographers in fashion, these pictures have a typical masculine rawness. Inside a short video to accompany this shoot, you may even see acne on his forehead. Imagine. Meanwhile, Tillmans has shot typically lo-fi stories for your latest Arena Homme including one called How Fragile could this be Man?, while the Russian designer and photographer Gosha Rubchinskiy has photographed ballet dancer Sergei Polunin for Man About Town. The second sees the shaven-headed ballet dancer wearing retro sportswear with eye makeup and a few days worth of facial hair.
Haute scruff was throughout one of the more talked-about moments of the spring/summer 2016 season: the Vetements show, that was located in a Chinese restaurant variously identified as “tacky” (Dazed & Confused), “cheap and cheerful” (Vogue Runway) and “kitschy” (Business of Fashion) and featured clothes that had been all deconstructed awkwardness and models who looked like that they had just presented of bed. Most of them weren’t actually models: Rubchinskiy appeared, wearing a DHL T-shirt (yes, as with the parcel delivery service); including the show stylist, Lotta Volkova, took a start up the catwalk, closing proceedings in thigh-high boots and a raw-edged denim miniskirt. The Vetements influence popular is simply set to go on: once the show, one of Paris’s most historic fashion houses, Balenciaga, announced that its lead designer, Demna Gvasalia, ended up being to become its new creative director.
Rubchinskiy is another from the buzziest names in menswear; since 2012 his label has been supported by Comme des Garçons. His clothes think that a nerdy take on Soviet sportswear – think a shellsuit top or 1980s patterned jumper. Snazzy, but not.
Actually, if everything else fails, the key to the look is a vintage-style tracksuit top. Gosha or AMI (next season) males. Chloe (next season) or Bottega Veneta resort for girls (see British Vogue’s December issue, where several tracktops are featured included in the “new downtown silhouette”). Basically, it’s all somewhat Damon Albarn circa 1996. Why does this humble zip-up sum up this new anti-luxury luxury? Firstly, as it ticks the 1990s box – as well as the dexqpkyy16 is starting to become the decade du jour. Secondly, it’s the opposite of all the justin bieber t shirt which has been the headline news in menswear in the past number of years. And finally, it’s very easy to chuck on, doesn’t appear like you’ve made an effort but suggests you are aware of what’s going on. Which feels scruffy and modern indeed.
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